M’ excuse, but I love the Greek islands and I love Cyclades the most. With their wild, raw beauty and minimalist architecture. That’s not something new or unheard of but I just felt like highlighting it.
And I love them the most during their off-season. May-June and September are the absolute best times to visit. And I’ve managed to do so every year (except this August, I will have to make an exception but that’s a drama I will leave for my future self.)
Each one of them is unique, with its own standout charm. For example, you go to Tinos for her countless villages and artistic richness, Milos for the most impressive beaches and Sifnos? Sifnos for her culinary tradition, her picturesque little alleys, the ceramics and the most beautiful bar in the world.
Book a table (it is a very busy spot and for good reason), order your wine and enjoy the sunset. It’s best to book a table around 19:30-20:00, enjoy a glass of wine (or 2) and then head to dinner.
And by dinner (which is very easy to combine, since you can spot it from Loggia on the beach below), I mean Cantina.
Yes, it’s pricey. Yes, you may have had better food elsewhere. But it’s 100% worth it. You dine to the gentle sound of the waves, with a soft breeze brushing your shoulders. (gettiiiing poetic!)
They operate in time slots -personally, I think the 21:00 slot is the best. You’ll have had a wine or aperitivo at Loggia just before, and you’ll still catch the last traces of dusk from your dinner table.
Where to swim
The answer, of course, is everywhere but let’s narrow it down.
Cherronisos
It’s where you’ll find the most photographed spot on the island (coming up!). A beautiful cove that feels like it’s frozen in the 1960s. There’s a beach with two feet-in-the-sand tavernas. You can either ‘camp out’ on the beach for the day or lay your towel on the little dock and dive right in.
Poulati
It’s quite a hike down—and back up. Be prepared to sit on rocks and dive from them, as there’s no actual beach there. But if you’re looking for seclusion, this is your spot.
Platys Gialos
Not exactly a secret beach —quite the opposite. It’s the largest on the island. But for that very reason, either everyone avoids it and heads elsewhere, or it’s just so big that you’ll easily find a secluded spot of your own. Bonus points for Omega 3 being right there. I prefer it for lunch —it's relaxed, you can walk straight in from the beach in your swimsuit, and the food is light and refreshing for a hot summer’s day.
Chrysopigi
Go to the beach yes, but most importantly go to Χρυσοπηγή, the taverna. There you can try fantastic Sifnian recipes like caper salad, mastelo and excellent chickpea stew.
Where to stay
Verina Astra
I can’t describe the serenity you feel at Verina Astra—gazing out at endless blue by day and up at countless stars by night. So instead, I’ll leave you with a short video and some photos.
The ceramics
You will probably notice from the first step you take in Sifnos that the locals have a long-standing tradition in ceramic art. You will find several spots to get yours from the island, but my suggestion would be Antonis Atsonio's ceramics at Vathy beach. Minimal, beautifully made, and dishwasher-safe. The workshop has been right by the sea for decades, as they used to load the boats directly from the studio to (literally) ship the pieces all over the Mediterranean.
Bonus Food
Lamarina for breakfast and take away lunch at Faros beach
Happy swimming!
Stella