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London welcomed me with a rain shower the very moment I stepped out of the Tube (fresh off the airport run to the house), followed by an intense pink-strawberry sunset smeared across a blue-grey sky over the madness of London Bridge. Then came a pleasant breeze as I walked along the banks of the otherwise dirty Thames (sorry to ruin this romantic daydream), about 18°C on the thermometer, an Uber driver randomly playing Roxy Music, and some Bermuda shorts printed with the faces of Jesus and Mary (not Chain) caught instantly my eye. Sprinkle in my crazy long-distance best friends I’d missed so, so much, plus a super-spicy Thai dinner in the private section of Kolae (thankfully, so we could talk ridiculously loud while celebrating our first night reunited).
<This travel Substack is going to be a bit all over the place—out and about, slightly random, very me. It’s been nearly 15 days since I got back, and I’ve wandered through so many different corners of London (and beyond) that now I’m just trying to stitch the memories together. I want to throw as many recommendations your way as I can, but also keep it somewhat coherent… even though I’m writing this at some ungodly hour of the morning, running on too much workload and way too much espresso. So, read along, pick out what you like, and let’s get into it.>
To be honest, London didn’t exactly wow me the first time I visited. Not even a little. I remember walking around thinking, ok cool, I’ve seen all this before somewhere. But the more I came back, the more it started to click. Not because I suddenly fell for Notting Hill or Portobello Road (sorry, but they’re so overrated, borderline boring). It’s because I kept wandering into random areas. Some tucked away outside the centre, some brand-new, some old places I’d just never noticed before. That’s when the city started feeling alive.
Somewhere in the city centre
Starting the day in Central London with some shopping
First stop: Soho. For me, the only good reason to be there is to head straight to the IDEA shop. Pro tip: go as early as you can. This was my first time and I was completely astonished by the sheer size of their archive—journals, magazines, books stacked everywhere. You could easily lose 3 hours there… or an entire week if you let yourself. My personal find was a rare 1986 copy of a Sid and Nancy book (felt very on brand).
Image selection session at IDEA Shop, with the help of a new friend.
From there, wander over to Chinatown and grab a Japanese matcha mille crêpe from Kova Patisserie (not too sweet, just the perfect hit of matcha), then on to Sister Ray Records to continue the treasure hunt; this time music-wise. Their shelves are packed with records, CDs, basically everything you’ve ever wanted and everything you didn’t know you wanted until you saw it.
Still not done with books? Around the corner there’s Climax Books by Isabella Burley, which has an insanely good collection.
Speaking of books, skip Cecil Court. TikTok loves it, but honestly, it’s more of a tourist trap than vintage goldmine.
Now, leaving the paper trail behind: head east to Shoreditch. On Redchurch Street you’ll find some seriously good shops. TOAST is a fave, with great fabrics, those relaxed Japanese-inspired silhouettes. Around the corner there’s Shoreditch Arts Club, a nice little hideout if you need to crack open your laptop mid-holiday (guilty).
And obviously, Brick Lane. You can’t not go. Go straight to Beigel Bake, their salt beef bagel with pickles and mustard really does live up to the hype. Brick Lane also has its famous vintage market, full of designer clothes (still pricey), cowboy boots, records, books. I haven’t been back recently so can’t vouch for current stock, but it’s always a fun rummage.
Where to brunch
Abuelo, Marylebone – their deconstructed avocado toast is super satisfying. Simple, but hits all the right notes.
Arôme Bakery, Covent Garden – Go for the honey butter toast.
Sunday in Brooklyn, Notting Hill – Brooklyn came to London and I could not miss it. Their oversized pancake with maple and chocolate is iconic. The last time I had one was in Williamsburg, so this felt like a little nostalgic moment.
Ta’mini Lebanese Bakery, Kensington – Small, authentic, and perfect if you’re in the mood for something a bit different.
Meanwhile, fine arts & other excuses to walk around like we know things
Almost all permanent exhibitions at London museums are admission free. Only the special displays or ticketed galleries cost you a penny. Some highlights worth checking out:
V&A East Storehouse – This is basically the V&A’s behind-the-scenes archive for artworks that aren’t (or haven’t yet been) on display. The layout is endlessly interesting. Bonus: The David Bowie Centre is here too, the new permanent home for his archive.
Japan House London, in Kensington – London’s cultural home for all things Japanese. Admission is free, and they often host small pop-up exhibitions (I saw one about Japanese pictograms).
The Sambourne House, at 18 Stafford Terrace, Kensington – Feels like a Victorian time capsule. The house belonged to a family aspiring to join the Holland Park Circle of artists, and stepping inside is like travelling back in time.
The interior of the Sambourne House, at 18 Stafford Terrace
As for the famous TATE, I suppose that everyone knows the Tates, but here’s what I’d focus on:
Tate Britain: Check out the exhibitions of Edward Burra and Ithell Colquhoun.
Gouffres Amers by Ithell Colqhoun (1939)
Tate Modern: The Leigh Bowery retrospective (ended August 31st) was insanely well curated.
Duke of York’s Theatre – Currently staging Stereophonic. A 1976 California recording studio recreated on stage. The story is familiar, but the sound, sets, and energy are brilliant.
Where to sit for a coffee
Hollyhock Vegetarian Fairtrade Café, Richmond – Had to start with one of my favourites. This place is pure fairytale vibes: a serene garden where you can watch blackbirds and squirrels, super friendly staff, organic juices, and really tasty pies and cakes. (They even have treats for dogs, which is adorable.)
The Hollyhock Vegetarian Fairtrade Café in Richmond
15grams, Blackheath Village – Loved the Bauhaus-style interiors. Minimal, clean, and very aesthetic.
At the 15grams Cafe
Grind, Royal Exchange – Yes, go for the interiors. Everything else is just a bonus.
Shreeji Newsagent & Tobacconist, Marylebone – A little hidden gem with a coffee & pastry bar tucked inside. Perfect for a quick, cozy stop.
What about the famous English tea?
Obviously, you have to start with Fortnum and Mason in Piccadilly. Four floors of tea heaven. Each floor has something different: flavours, sweet accompaniments, accessories, picnic essentials, even tea ornaments for your Christmas tree. The 4th floor is home to the Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon, with signature Fortnum’s delights perfectly arranged on tables, ideal setting for a cold winter Friday afternoon, sipping tea and indulging in moreish scones with clotted cream and jam.
Next up, one of my personal favourites: Petersham Nurseries’ Teahouse. Perfect after a walk in Richmond Park.
Afternoon tea is served in the glasshouse, candlelit evenings included if you time it right, and the homemade rhubarb frangipane tart is simple, delicious perfection. Bonus: they sell Seilich tea, grown and handpicked in wildflower meadows, which is so aromatic.
Don’t skip the Green Shop for plants and the Lifestyle Shop for antique treasures and unique finds sourced from around the world.
The Petersham Hotel in Richmond
Talking about green…
Since we’re already in Richmond, let’s zoom out a bit and talk about all the beautiful green spots around London (even if the city definitely has its aridity moments). One minute you’re surrounded by concrete and skyscrapers, the next you’re in a beautiful big park. People are sprawled out on the grass with picnic food, sipping coffee at a Colicci cafe, or just stretched out on a sunbed contemplating their entire existence. Dreamy.
And the next big thing for me about London, is the blue-grey skies, that I absolutely love, as a pluviophile that I am. If only British people were a little more… flexible, a little more “go with the flow,” it would be perfect. Life moves, things happen, you just keep going.
Always impressed by the plant selection. Here at Bramble & Moss in Richmond
Richmond upon Thames, downtown
Richmond hill itself is dreamy, with its serene riverside paths, the hill with views, and endless green.
One of my favourite summer days ever was grabbing takeaway beers and fresh pasta from Evangelists, sitting on the grass with a panoramic river view, and having a sunset picnic with friends. So simple, yet so perfect.
When I’m talking about “panoramic river view”, this is what I mean!
A picnic evening at Richmond Hill
Give yourself time to explore the Eastern suburbs, or “villages,” as Londoners call some of them.
On our way to Greenwich Village
Greenwich Village: Don’t miss Greenwich Market, and definitely make the climb up to the Royal Observatory within Greenwich Park for that panoramic city view.
I loved the contradiction between the amusement park and the ravens flying in the sky above in Blackheath.
Blackheath Village: You can go there starting from Horniman Gardens, by bus or by 1h20min walking (if you feel like it). Your visit requires a stop at the Bookshop on the Heath, where you will discover vintage maps and literary treasures!
Didn’t try this, but the typography looked cool for my camera!
East Dulwich: Laid-back, residential and very local energy - it definitely worths it. The walks are lovely, the properties are beautiful (buying one is… well, a joke, but you’ll want to).
When in East Dulwich
Exclamation mark here! Once you’re in these areas, you MUST walk. Walk miles—16,000 steps minimum. Keep your eyes open because there’s always something to stumble across.
And if you’re up for something bigger: the Seven Sisters Cliffs. These chalk sea cliffs in East Sussex are spectacular, untouched, and dramatic. They stretch from the River Cuckmere to Beachy Head, named after the seven crests that divide the valleys (the sea keeps eroding them, so they’re constantly shifting). Start your hike from Belle Tout Lighthouse and head across the Sisters. It’s long with plenty of ups and downs, but the trail itself is smooth, grassy, and not too intense. Every view is breathtaking.
Me somewhere on the 2nd Sister.
Tip: Start early to dodge the crowds. And don’t rush, because this is a walk to savour, especially with friends.
And after all that walking, you’re probably starving, so here you are.
Where to dine
Rochelle Canteen - Probably my best meal in London. It’s hidden behind a gate, then suddenly you’re in this dreamy garden courtyard, and the restaurant itself is set in a big glassy conservatory with its ceiling covered in vines. Perfect spot for a sunny afternoon where literally everything on the menu is so good. Grape ice cream and Campari sorbet = must. Dinner is tricky to book, but persistence pays off.
Le Café du Marché, Charterhouse Mews, Smithfield – An independent charming French spot (somewhere near Poirot’s apartment, if you know, you know).
Take a little break and soak in the view from Charterhouse Square, right in front of Florin Court.
In Florin Court wearing 2WO+1NE=2 Jumpsuit from Shanghai collection
St. John, Marylebone - Classic British done modern. Minimal, clean interiors that totally fit my taste. Their menu is carefully curated, though sharing plates can be a bit tricky despite the concept.
Bambi, Hackney - A newer addition to the scene. Wine bar with small plates, amazing desserts, and a buzzy, warm atmosphere. Bonus: some staff members are ridiculously attractive.
Norbert’s, East Dulwich - If you’re craving comfort food, this is it. Super tasty rotisserie chicken and daiquiri cocktails, that feels exactly like a classic Sunday family lunch at home.
Where to go for drinks
First things first: go East. Hackney, Dalston, Peckham (quite gentrified), Shoreditch — that’s where the fun is. Second rule: go out early. Like 8–9PM early. Because London bars love to crush your soul by closing around midnight.
Forza Wine, Peckham - Great for the view, solid for the wine. The food? Meh. Dessert? Don’t bother.
Peckham Arches - Laidback garden vibes. Perfect for beers and tacos with friends.
Bar Levan, Peckham - Their wine selection is very good. That’s the reason to go.
When in Peckham
“Mu”, Dalston - Stumbled across this Japanese spot by accident and it was a success. Curated darkness, moody as hell.
The Hawk’s Nest, Shepherd’s Bush – The only one in the West. A neighbourhood hangout serving beers and pizza.
Closing this Sub with the best part of my trip…
THE COTSWOLDS!
Can a Fiat 500 actually fit 5 people? If you are in Cotswolds, apparently yes.
That’s where we started, in this insanely beautiful pocket of English countryside, just a 2-hour drive from London. This place made me rethink my longstanding hatred of summer. It’s not that bad after all. August mornings are like 12°C (aka perfect), it’s just fields and lakes forever, and the sun actually feels nice instead of trying to kill you. Life moves sloooowly here, and it’s glorious.
Lower Moor Farm is a little slice of heaven. The Dragonfly Cafe (as, dragonfly preservation happens here) serves breakfast and lunch on a gorgeous wooden deck overlooking a tranquil lake. It’s a Wiltshire Wildlife Trust site, so everything is impeccably maintained: nature trails, blackberry bushes, bird hides, and plenty to explore.
Νature trails at Lower Moor Farm
Other farm options:
Jolly Nice Farmshop & Cafe(between Stroud and Cirencester) is family-run and supports local farmers and artisans. Seasonal, sustainable food, brunch and lunch options, but you must try the grilled cheese or BLT toasties! Don’t leave without picking up their local orange marmalade and whiskey-honey liqueur. They also host retreats and events for locals and visitors alike.
The Barn at Chavenage sits inside a 16th-century estate. Coffee, freshly baked pastries, sweet treats, and hot/cold drinks, an ideal way to start your day!
Bonus: All these spots serve Marshfield Farm ice creams. Taste as many flavours as possible. Seriously.
Where to stay?
Stay at The PIG hotel in Barnsley, just four miles from Cirencester. A honey-hued 17th-century Grade II gem with original listed gardens by Rosemary Verey (learn more about her).
This dreamy place, holds hidden gems in every corner: The Village Pub across the road, the Fieldhouse for treatments, ornamental gardens with archways, potager gardens, a lush Laburnum walkway, and greenhouses growing everything the restaurant cooks.
The ornamental gardens with archways
The restaurant is indeed incredible. Table settings, food, and one of the best blueberry cheesecakes ever.
The restaurant at the PIG
There’s also a tennis court, a farm with chickens, a very good bar serving local drinks (among everything else). It’s the perfect base.
The Bar at the PIG
Villages you can’t miss!
Using The PIG Hotel in Barnsley as a base makes exploring the Cotswolds super easy. Most villages are only a 20–45 minute drive away, so every day can be a new little road trip.
Castle Combe is one of those villages that looks like it was plucked straight out of a storybook. I actually first knew it from Agatha Christie’s The Murder of Roger Ackroyd. It’s also often called “the prettiest village in England,” and honestly… they’re not wrong. The only bummer is that nearly half of it is occupied by the Manor House Hotel, so big chunks feel off-limits—except the St. Andrew’s church, which is still open for the public. But silver lining: there’s this adorable old lady in the center who sells Marshfield Farm ice cream for cheaper than you’ll ever find it in London. Don’t miss her.
Castle Combe village
Pibury is very small and gorgeous, but starting to feel a little suffocated with tourists. My tip: pair it with Bourton-on-the-Water (about 20min drive), which is bigger, a bit more fun, and has this dreamy café right by the river where you can sit forever.
Pibury village
And then there’s Painswick, which feels like stepping back in time. A perfectly preserved wool town, famous for its yew trees and Rococo Garden. It’s surrounded by rolling hills that are made for walkers—hike up to Painswick Beacon for the views, and don’t skip St Mary’s Church. Absolutely worth it.
+2 Essential stops in-between
Stop at The STUMP pub for decent pizza, craft beer, and a heavenly chocolate pudding with caramel fudge sauce that’ll ruin all other desserts for you.
Cotswolds Sculpture Park is also a must-visit. Impressive sculptures tucked into a forest backdrop make everything feel magical. Big park, sunny and shaded trails, about 2 hours at a leisurely pace. There’s seating everywhere, and a cafe for breaks.
just found this & looooved it — its long but doesn't feel like it at all! the rain > neon sunset > roxy music london welcome made me smile. seven sisters at sunrise is unbeatable. saving your cotswolds + east london recs for next time!!
just found this & looooved it — its long but doesn't feel like it at all! the rain > neon sunset > roxy music london welcome made me smile. seven sisters at sunrise is unbeatable. saving your cotswolds + east london recs for next time!!