Athens in July isn’t for the weak. And yet… here we are. Which is why this little Substack issue is dedicated to surviving (and maybe slightly enjoying?) the Athenian heat. Smart, breezy outfits + a few handpicked places — some in the city, some just outside — that feel like a breeze (or at least have shade).
Stella’s
You’d think that after decades of living in Athens, I’d have mastered the 'art' of looking like I’m not suffering during a heatwave. The joke’s on me — I haven’t.
I do, however, have a very good idea of what not to do — and how to, at least, not melt into the pavement. Don’t layer (duh!), don’t overthink outfits (styling is for the other three seasons, not summer), and choose fabrics and colours very wisely.
I’m breaking down my choices by fabric and by location — anything to make the heat more bearable.
Press play:
Linen at Aqua Marina
July in Athens is meant to be spent outside of it — either in the countryside, at a nearby beach, or in the suburbs. More often than not, the suburb of choice is one of the southern ones — but not during the weekend. On a weekday, I head towards the sea, specifically around Vouliagmeni. Even more specifically: Aqua Marina.
It’s a lovely café that feels like time stopped 50 years ago. You can have a piece of toast, a Nescafé frappé, and a whisky special with all the trimmings. No one’s looking at their phones — they’re all looking at the sea.
So, linen. It’s breathable and slightly structured, without feeling or looking stuffy. I love wearing linen jackets as a top in the summer — it’s one of the few times I actually feel put together. I usually pair it with either a very short pair of shorts or a long, slim linen skirt. And I’ll swap my usual leather sandals for pointed raffia flats — just to feel like I tried.
Cotton + Tencel + Silk under a shade
These are the three fabrics I go for in the summer, worn all together. I usually avoid silk during the day (because I respect it too much!), but I’ll make an exception for a silk scarf. In autumn and winter, you’ll find me wearing silk scarves around my neck. But in summer I can’t even stand my own hair, so around my waist it goes.
I paired it with my favourite cotton summer shirt. It used to be my grandmother’s, so it holds sentimental value —but also, it’s the greatest heatwave shirt. It’s made of lightweight cotton and full of cut-outs, so air just passes right through. And I love a long sleeve (which I can only get away with because of all the holes), since it feels like it offers at least a little sun protection.
And now for the Tencel skirt. If you’re not familiar with it, Tencel is a sustainable alternative to wood-cellulose fabrics. It’s airy, flowy, and feels like silk, but it’s not that precious. So you can wear it during the day, feel great, and then just throw it in the washing machine.
Cotton in an air-conditioned environment
Wrap me in something that looks like a tent and I’m a happy girl. Is it all those years of free camping? Is it the absolute freedom of movement? Either way, I’m sold — it’s made for me.
And don’t knock the three-quarter sleeve (at least when you’re indoors). On most days, if I’m not out running errands, I’m inside from 10:00 to 19:00 — and constantly cold under the air-conditioner.
The crisp cotton of “The Inmate” dress makes it feel more elevated than a flimsy kaftan, while keeping all its advantages. It’s by far my most comfortable summer item — and in black, you can even get away with wearing a kaftan in the middle of the city.
Where to escape the heat
Café of Numismatic Museum (my favourite hidden oasis in the centre of Athens)
Sofi’s (only during weekdays)
Alexandra’s
I literally cannot do July in Athens. It’s my personal nightmare, a relentless wall of heat and sweat that makes me want to hide indoors, clinging to the nearest air-con in 21°C until my beloved October rolls around again and we eventually set our clocks back for winter time. That said, there are always a few good things (outfits, moments, places) that make it kind of bearable - even if getting to them feels like a slow roast.
CHERRY COLA = captured in a favourite artsy corner somewhere between Acropolis and Koukaki
One of my all-time favourite colours, regardless of season, sits somewhere between deep purple, dark burgundy, and that very specific and very thirst-quenching cherry cola hue. Whether it’s on my lips, my nails, or wrapped around me in fabric form, it evokes this moody, late-'90s Renée Madison in Lost Highway energy. It feels like black without actually being black. Know what I mean? Probably not. But I feel it.
So this time, I took it literally. High-waisted, slightly flared linen trousers in that perfect juicy shade. And what’s more practical for a brutally hot day than a swimsuit? A swimsuit in the exact same colour. (No, they weren’t a set, but they are now.) Streamlined. Minimal. Broken only by strappy heeled sandals and black sunglasses that say “don’t talk to me unless you have a genuinely interesting movie suggestion.” From morning coffees and idle strolls, to a late lunch, sunset drinks, and possibly even a night swim. All without changing once.
DRESSED TO CHILL = in the foothills of Philopappou
You might think this is a beach outfit, but I’m here to prove you wrong. ‘Cause this bra is not swimwear, this shirt is not a beach cover-up, and these shoes are definitely not flip flops.
I call this look ‘functioning in 40°C.’ A practical experiment in staying cool without sacrificing aesthetic integrity. It’s built from summer’s finest fabrics - linen, ramie, silk - anchored by a barely-there bra, a sun-shielding cap, and city-proof shoes (the kind you can actually walk in… like, for hours). And then there’s the snowy white linen trousers, the only pants you can wear all day and still look like you’ve got it together.
BLACK LINEN + OTHER COPING MECHANISMS = in Pikionis Pathway
I found shade. I’m not leaving.
Wearing an all-black, all-linen two-piece that somehow feels less insane than it sounds. Shorts are the perfect length (which never happens), and the top is basically a handkerchief pretending to be a shirt - ties however you want, which I love because normal tops in the summer are boring.
Accidentally matched a fire hydrant with my red ballet flats. So proud of that one!
Where to escape the heat
Parkbench with its breezy Philopappou square setting
Varsos garden in Kifisia
Chartes in Exarchia (for some unknown reason, it always gives me that shady, laid back, slow morning feeling)
Valisia’s
The drama of Effortless
Let’s get one thing straight: summer outfits are not my favorite category. Especially in Athens, where the sun doesn’t just shine, it interrogates you. My go-to survival piece is the صريمة الجدي Dress, which I proudly own in both black and white. It’s short, breezy without being shapeless, and genuinely easy to wear. My boyfriend constantly says my style isn’t effortless, whereas to me, it absolutely is. This is just who I am. So when I find a simple, throw-it-on-and-go kind of piece, it’s only natural (in my blood, truly) to combine it with something a little more theatrical. Something like this wide-brimmed cotton hat, which looks like it’s ready to attend a garden party hosted by Pasolini. I wear it all while sitting in the shady calm of a quiet park, cicadas humming their steady soundtrack in the background, making the heat feel almost meditative.
Belts, Bikini tops and other illusions
Now this one is a little heatwave trickery. I’m wearing the top of the رأس الحانوت bikini as, well… a top. Let’s not pretend swimwear hasn’t been multitasking for decades. I’ve paired it with my vintage Wrangler jeans that were previously owned by my dad, which explains why they’re a bit roomy in all the right places. Normally I go for high-waisted silhouettes, but when it’s 40°C and climbing, I’m willing to make certain compromises. Mid-rise, slightly baggy denim? I’ll allow it.
But of course, I couldn’t leave it there. Enter: the double belt. One is practical, holding the jeans in place. The other sits right on the waist, purely for visual architecture, creating the illusion of a high waist without the actual commitment. Think of it as heatwave tailoring for the detail-obsessed. On my feet? Western mules. I love the whole boots-and-jeans fantasy, but no offence, leather boots in Athens in July are not a bold fashion statement, they’re a cry for help. I’m a huge fan of summer socks, but boots? Not really.
And yes, I’m by a fountain. Because if I’m going to melt, I might as well do it gracefully, with a light mist in the background. Standing near a water source feels practically strategic.
Elegantly Melting
For those heatwave evenings when you still want to look like you’ve got a secret to tell, I go for the Huari Dress. It’s revealing in all the right places with its sharp shoulders and the exposed back. However it never feels like it’s trying too hard. The silhouette is loose enough to let the skin breathe without ever losing its edge. It’s what I wear when I want to give a little drama, but can’t fathom tight seams or synthetic linings.
Now - confession time. Due to the infernal temperatures, I’ve temporarily set aside my beloved silver necklaces. Blasphemy, I know. But in their place, I wear a simple black cotton ribbon around my neck: light, airy, and quietly chic. Sometimes, survival means compromise. But it never means giving up.
Where to escape the heat
Stay cool!
Stella + Alexandra + Valisia